The crimson officer's czapka from the National Museum in Poznań belongs to the most recognisable Polish formation of the Napoleonic era – the 1st Polish Light Cavalry Regiment of the Imperial Guard, raised by a decree of Napoleon I in April 1807 in the imperial camp at Finckenstein. The headgear, known to the historiography as the chevau-léger cap, the konfederatka or the czapka, grows directly out of the tradition of the four-cornered cap of the national cavalry of the Commonwealth (regulations of 1778) and the fashion of the Bar Confederates.
The regiment, commanded by Colonel Wincenty Krasiński, was formed from volunteers drawn from the wealthy landed gentry, obliged to provide their own mount and accoutrement at their own expense. Hence the officer's piece is not mass equipment but an individual product of the passementerie and metalwork workshops, whose silver galloons and cords testified to the rank and fortune of the wearer.
The formation's combat road – from the charge at the Somosierra pass on 30 November 1808, through Wagram and the Berezina, to Hanau and the French campaign of 1814 – made the chevau-léger's headgear the vehicle of a specific war legend, and not merely an abstract sign of uniform. The regiment's first register of enrolment, the so-called Registre-Matricule, begun on 14 April 1807 in Warsaw, covered the chevau-légers with numbers from 1 to 1800.
Bridge: from the konfederatka to the twentieth-century rogatywka
The object joins two orders: the modern visual apparatus of the French Empire and the memory of the pre-partition national dress. The four-cornered crown, worn according to regimental fashion tilted over the right eye, was a legible quotation from the confederate cap, and thereby a declaration of the continuity of the national military tradition. The chevau-léger pattern was imitated in other lancer formations, and the very form of the four-cornered cap – through the Polish regiments in French service – gained an international career, ultimately to return as the rogatywka to the Polish army of the twentieth century.
Memory: the chevau-léger's relic
After 1815, in the conditions of the loss of statehood, the chevau-léger cap passed from the order of equipment into the order of the relic. The crimson silhouette became a recognisable sign of Polishness in battle painting – from the works of January Suchodolski, through Piotr Michałowski, to Juliusz and Wojciech Kossak. The Poznań piece should therefore be read simultaneously in two orders: as an authentic artefact of the luxury craft of the Empire period and as the prototype of countless nineteenth-century representations.